If a bedroom sits over the garage or a family room shares its wall, the garage door is really part of that room's outside wall. On Point Garage Doors installs insulated doors across Brooklyn, Queens and Long Island, replaces the seals around them, and sets the springs for the extra weight. The estimate is free.
Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate is free either way.
The simpler kind uses rigid polystyrene boards set inside a steel section, sometimes with a second steel skin closing them in. It is a real step up from a bare single-layer door, cutting both the cold and the rattle.
The other kind has polyurethane foam injected between two steel skins, where it expands and bonds to both. That makes each section stiffer and quieter, and it insulates better for the same thickness. Either one is a different door from the thin, hollow steel that most older garages were built with.
Doors are often described by their layers: a single steel skin, steel with insulation behind it, or insulation sandwiched between two skins. The sandwich kind also gives the garage a finished inside face instead of bare foam, which matters when the garage doubles as a workshop, a gym or a place to store things that shouldn't freeze.
Makers rate their doors with an R-value, a measure of how strongly the door resists heat moving through it. A higher number means heat leaks through more slowly, in winter and in summer.
Two cautions keep the number honest. It's only useful for comparing doors rated the same way, and it describes the door's sections, not the gaps around them. A well-rated door with a worn bottom seal and daylight down one side can lose more heat than a modest door that closes tight, which is why the seals matter as much as the label.
Summer counts too. A door facing the afternoon sun can turn a garage into an oven, and that heat climbs into the room above it. An insulated door slows that down in July the same way it holds warmth in January.
Around every insulated door there are three places air gets in: under the bottom section, along both sides, and across the top. A new door comes with a new bottom seal, and the side and top weatherstrip is replaced at the same time rather than reused from the old door.
Older concrete floors are rarely level, and a garage under a house often has a slab that dips toward the drain. The bottom seal is chosen to close those dips, so the door seals along its whole width instead of only where the floor happens to be flat.
An insulated door does more than hold heat. It cuts noise from the street, stops the hollow boom a thin door makes in the wind, and holds its shape better when a ball or a bumper hits it. People sleeping over a garage on a busy block tend to notice the quiet first.
All that material adds weight. The springs are chosen for the door's real weight once it is hanging, and the opener is checked to be sure it can run the heavier door without straining. If it can't, you hear that before the install, not after.
Windows can go into an insulated door as well. Insulated glass keeps the windowed sections from becoming the cold spot in an otherwise warm door, and frosted glass lets light in without showing the street what is parked inside.
Two visits, with nothing ordered until you have the free estimate.
Not every garage needs insulation. A detached garage used for storage, with nothing heated beside it, rarely benefits, and a lighter uninsulated door is easier on its springs and opener. If the walls and ceiling of the garage aren't insulated either, a warm door on its own changes less than people expect.
That's said plainly at the measure. The aim is the right door for how the garage is used, and sometimes that is the simpler one.
Insulated sections are thicker than single-layer ones, and many garages under rowhouses have very little room above the opening. The thicker door still fits most of them with a low-headroom track setup, and a wall-mounted opener beside the door frees up the ceiling where space is tight.
It also helps to think about the room above as a whole. A bedroom floor over a garage loses warmth downward through the garage ceiling, so the door works best alongside an insulated ceiling below that room. The technician will point out what they see, even when it's outside the door's own job.
The measure checks the headroom, the side room and anything overhead, like pipes or ducts, before a door is chosen. For the full picture of a new door from start to finish, see our garage door installation page.
When someone lives or works in a room above or beside the garage, usually yes. For a detached storage garage with nothing heated nearby, a plain door is often the better choice.
Polystyrene is rigid board set inside the section. Polyurethane is foam injected between two steel skins, where it bonds to both, making a stiffer and quieter section that insulates better for its thickness.
Higher means slower heat loss, but it only compares doors rated the same way. Good seals around the door matter as much as the number on the label.
Yes. Insulated sections cut street noise and the rattle a thin door makes, which is often what people notice first.
Yes, so the springs are chosen for its real weight and the opener is checked to be sure it can run the door without strain.
Insulation kits exist for some doors, but they add weight that the springs then have to be reset for, and they rarely match a door built insulated. The technician looks at your door and tells you which way makes sense.
In most cases, with a low-headroom track setup. The measure checks the room above the opening before anything is ordered.
Yes. The bottom seal comes with the door, and the side and top weatherstrip is replaced at the same visit.
Yes. The measure and the written estimate are free, and nothing is ordered until you decide.
Describe the fault and we'll give you an honest arrival time. The visit and the estimate is free, anywhere in Kings County.
Easier to explain by phone? Call (929) 429-2429.
Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate is free either way.