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A new garage door here usually replaces one of three things: a heavy old door on a detached garage, the builder door under a rowhouse or semi-attached house, or a worn two-car door on a ranch or cape. Each comes with its own limits on headroom, space and style. The measure and the written estimate are free.
Garages under rowhouses and semi-attached homes rarely have the room above the opening that standard tracks need. A low-headroom track setup, with the springs moved to the back or to the side, solves most of them. A wall-mounted opener beside the door, instead of one hanging from the ceiling, frees up the rest of the space. For a door that is mostly glass, see glass garage doors. If you want real wood or a carriage-house look, see wood and carriage garage doors. For foam-filled doors and the seals that go with them, see insulated garage doors.
That's why the measure looks up as carefully as it looks across: at the header, the joists, any pipes or ducts, and how far back the garage runs before the tracks would hit something.

When there's a bedroom or a living room over the garage, an insulated door makes a real difference to how that room feels in January. A door with foam sealed inside its steel skin, plus a new bottom seal and side weatherstrip, cuts the cold coming up from below and runs much more quietly.
For a detached garage used for storage, a lighter uninsulated door is often the more sensible choice, and it's easier on the springs and the opener.



Older detached garages sometimes still have a single-panel door that swings up and out. Replacing it with a sectional door means new tracks, new springs and sometimes new framing at the opening, but the result is a door that opens straight up, needs no room in front of the garage to swing, and seals much better when it's shut.
The opening is checked for rot and square before anything is ordered, and any framing work is listed separately on the estimate.
Here's how it goes.

On a lot of blocks the garage door is the biggest thing on the front of the house, so a door that suits the house matters: carriage panels on older brick, clean flush panels on a newer home. Houses inside a landmarked historic district can need the city's sign-off before the front changes, garage door included, so check that before choosing.
Colors are chosen outside against the brick or siding, from real samples, because a door looks different in daylight than on a screen.
Houses close to the bays and the ocean get salt air and strong wind. A door with reinforcing struts across its sections stands up better to a hard blow, and hardware with a better corrosion finish lasts longer in the salt. Both are worth asking about if you can see the water from the block.
Bay Ridge, Dyker Heights, Marine Park, Mill Basin and Kensington in Brooklyn; Bayside, Fresh Meadows, Whitestone and Middle Village in Queens; and on Long Island, Levittown, Massapequa, Hempstead and the towns east of them.
The measure comes to you, wherever the house is.
Measured at the house. Nothing ordered from a guess.
Springs chosen after the door is up. By its real weight.
The old door taken away. Nothing left behind in the driveway.
Working before we leave. Balance, reverse and every remote checked.
That's common here. A low-headroom track setup and often a wall-mounted opener solve it; the measure checks exactly what's possible.
Yes. It takes new tracks and springs and sometimes new framing at the opening, all listed on the estimate.
Whenever someone lives or works in a room over the garage or next to it. For a detached storage garage, usually not.
Changes to the front can need approval first. The style is matched to the house, and it's worth checking with the city before ordering.
Two in all: one to measure, and one to take the old door out and put the new one in, balanced and tested.
You get a written estimate, free, and take whatever time you need to decide.
Tell us the address and roughly what you'd like, by phone or through the form. The technician brings sample panels and measures on the one trip.
Free estimate, no pressure to decide.
Describe the fault and we'll give you an honest arrival time. The visit and the estimate is free, anywhere in Kings County.
Easier to explain by phone? Call (929) 429-2429.
Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate is free either way.