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How to make a garage door harder to get through

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Home › How to Secure a Garage Door

Real jobs. Real photos.

Every photo here is from our own work, with our logo on it.

Bent door, replaced: before and after photo from one of our jobs
Bent door, replaced
New door and opener, photo from one of our jobs
New door and opener
New remotes, set up on site, photo from one of our jobs
New remotes, set up on site

On attached brick garages under rowhouses the garage is often the way into the house. Here's the list we go through with people after a break-in on the block, and what we put in.

Why the garage door is the weak point

A garage door is several small weaknesses stacked up: a reachable release, a code that never changed, a remote in a car on the street, glass in the panels, a side door with a knob lock, and an unlocked door into the house. None is serious alone. Together they explain why break-ins around New York so often start in the garage.

The list is short. The habits are free; the hardware is a short visit with a free estimate.

A garage door opener motor and rail in a New York, NY garage

The emergency release

The red cord hanging from the opener trolley disconnects the door from the opener so it can be lifted by hand in a power cut. It has to stay reachable from inside; that's a safety requirement. What it doesn't have to be is reachable from outside, and on many doors the gap at the top of the door leaves it exposed.

The answer is a shield over the trolley. It stops the cord being reached from outside and changes nothing about pulling it from inside. We carry them and install them on any visit.

An outdoor keypad beside a garage in New York, NY
Tools On Point Garage Doors carries for garage door repair in New York, NY
Dented panel sections on an older garage door in New York, NY

Nine things, habits first, then hardware

Free ones first, then what we put in.

  1. Use the opener's lock mode when you're awayChamberlain and LiftMaster wall controls have a lock (vacation) setting that makes the opener ignore every remote until you release it. Use it overnight and every time you leave for more than a day. We show you where it is on any visit.
  2. Change the keypad code after a moveThe week you move in, and again any time a contractor or a tenant has had it. Four digits that aren't the house number, the year, or 1234. We reset it on the visit and clear the old remotes at the same time.
  3. Don't leave the remote in the carA remote clipped to the visor in a car parked on the street is a key to your house. Take it in, or have the car's built-in buttons paired instead, which can't be lifted out.
  4. Lock the door into the houseThe door from the garage into the kitchen or hallway should be an exterior-grade door with a deadbolt, and the deadbolt should be used. Most aren't.
  5. A release shieldSee above. We install it; it blocks the emergency release from outside without affecting it from inside.
  6. Windows covered or replacedPanel windows show whether the car is home and whether the garage is worth the trouble. Frosted film is the quick answer; a new top section without glass is the permanent one, and we supply both.
  7. A smart opener or a smart moduleA Wi-Fi opener or a retrofit module sends a phone alert whenever the door opens or closes, and lets you close it from anywhere. The alert is the part that matters; most people find out the door was open all night from the notification. We install and set it up.
  8. The side door brought up to standardThe side door into the garage usually has a knob lock and a hollow core. A deadbolt, a solid door and a reinforced strike bring it up to the front door's standard, and it's part of the same visit.
  9. A slide lock on the trackA slide bolt on the inside of the track means the door physically cannot roll up, whatever the opener is told. We add one where the door lacks it, and set the opener so it cannot fight a locked door.
The wall control and learn button area of a garage door opener in New York, NY

Rolling code, and why the opener's age matters

Rolling code (late 1990s onward) changes the signal on every press. Fixed code (older) doesn't, and can be duplicated. If yours is fixed-code, replacement is the honest recommendation: security, lock mode, alerts and less noise in one visit.

The technician tells you which yours is from the unit itself on any visit, and what a replacement would involve. Free estimate.

Before a trip

The trip checklist: opener lock mode, track slide lock, remotes out of the car, inside door deadbolted, app alerts on, a neighbor told. It takes less time than packing.

Back home, unlock the slide bolt before the opener runs; it can't lift a locked door and will hurt itself trying.

The hardware side

Shields, slide locks, deadbolts, windowless top sections, smart openers and modules, and replacements for fixed-code units. All standard work around New York, and something we'll walk through on any other visit if you ask. Free estimate.

What we don't do is describe on this site how a garage door is defeated. The protections above are enough to know; the methods aren't something we publish.

What people are told, and what's real

A closed garage door is a secured garage door. Not if the release is reachable, the remote is in the car and the inside door is unlocked. Closed and secured are different states.

Smart openers make it less secure. A current one with a strong account password is the opposite: you find out the moment the door opens, and you can shut it from a phone. The risk is a weak password reused from somewhere else.

The side door doesn't matter. It's the door most often used, because it's the one nobody hardened.

Questions we get asked

Is the release shield safe? I need to open the door in a power cut.

Yes. It blocks the release from outside and above only. From inside the garage the cord hangs and pulls as it always did.

My opener is from the 1990s. Is it worth keeping?

If it is a fixed-code unit we'd recommend replacing the opener; if it is rolling code it's fine to keep. The technician tells you which from the unit on any visit.

Can you add a slide lock to my door?

Yes, on most sectional doors. It fits inside the track and takes about twenty minutes, and we set the opener so it cannot fight the lock.

Will frosted film on the windows look bad?

It looks like frosted glass from outside and lets light in. If you'd rather, a replacement top section with no windows matches the rest of the door.

Is the estimate really free?

Free, across Kings County. You hear what we'd suggest and what it takes, and no is a complete answer.

Can you come out today?

Nearly always; these are short jobs.

Booking takes a minute

Around Brooklyn, Queens and Long Island, one call gets you a two-hour slot and a heads-up call before the technician sets off. Nobody on a phone judges a door they can't see.

Free estimate, across Brooklyn, Queens and Long Island.

Want the door checked and tightened up?

Describe the fault and we'll give you an honest arrival time. The visit and the estimate is free, anywhere in Kings County.

Easier to explain by phone? Call (929) 429-2429.

Two minutes to a free estimate on any garage door work

Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate is free either way.

Or just call (929) 429-2429 and talk it through.

The other six things that go wrong