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Storefronts, warehouses and building garages

Rolling gate repair across Brooklyn, Queens and Long Island

On Point Garage Doors repairs rolling gates and storefront gates: motors that hum and stall, springs that have lost their pull, bent slats, jumped guides and locks that won't catch. The estimate is free and comes before any work.

Free estimateMotors and springsSlats and guidesFire-rated doors too

Tell us which door

Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate is free, and you hear the number before we start.

Or just call (929) 429-2429 and talk it through.

Home › Rolling Gate Repair

What a rolling gate is made of

A rolling gate is a curtain of interlocking steel slats that coils around a barrel above the opening. Inside that barrel sit torsion springs that carry most of the curtain's weight, which is why a gate in good shape feels lighter than it looks. The curtain runs in two guides, one on each side, and stops on a bottom bar that carries the locks. A hood covers the coil, and on a motorized gate the operator sits beside the barrel and turns it through a chain or a gear.

Each of those parts fails in its own way, and the symptom usually points straight at the part. That is why the first thing we ask on a call is what the gate does when you try to raise it, not what you think has broken.

Graffiti-covered rolling gates on a warehouse and a side door, the kind of gate On Point Garage Doors repairs

The calls we get most

Most rolling gate calls come down to one of these:

  • The motor hums, the gate stays down. Most often the springs have lost tension and the motor can't lift the full curtain. A worn brake or gear can look the same.
  • It stops halfway or rises crooked. A slat edge catching in a guide, a guide bent by a bump, or one side of the curtain dragging.
  • Heavy to lift, or it drops fast. Tired or broken springs. On a gate raised by hand it shows up as more effort every week.
  • The curtain jumped out of a guide. Usually after a delivery truck clips the frame or someone tries to force it. The guide has to be straightened before the curtain will stay in.
  • Dented or torn slats. Impacts, pry bars, and years of salt and standing water along the bottom of the curtain.
  • The lock bar won't line up. A bent bottom bar, or a curtain hanging crooked so the bar never meets its lock.
  • Grinding or clanking from the hood. Worn bearings, a stretched chain or a sprocket that has started to slip.

Springs carry the weight

The springs inside the barrel are set against the curtain's weight. Over years of opening and closing they lose tension, and the gate starts to feel heavy, or the motor starts to strain and stop partway. A spring that breaks outright can leave a gate that won't move at all, open or closed.

That tension is stored energy, and releasing it the wrong way is how people get hurt. Leave the barrel and the springs alone. The technician checks the springs against the size and weight of the curtain and tells you what the gate needs before anything is replaced.

When springs are replaced they are matched to your curtain, and the gate is balanced so a motor isn't fighting dead weight every morning.

Close-up of perforated rolling gate slats, the see-through kind used on storefront windows

Slats, guides, hood and bottom bar

Slats take the abuse. A truck backing in too close, a pry bar, or years of salt and water at the bottom of the curtain all leave their mark. Damaged slats can often be replaced on their own, which keeps the rest of the curtain in service.

A guide bent inward pinches the curtain and makes the motor work harder; bent outward, it lets the curtain jump. Straightening or replacing a guide is often what stops a gate from jamming at the same height every day.

The bottom bar and its locks are checked at the same visit, since a curtain that hangs crooked will never meet its lock. Perforated, see-through curtains, the kind that let a lit window show at night, are handled the same way as solid ones.

Motors, operators and going from hand to motor

A rolling gate operator is a heavy-duty motor with a brake, limit settings that tell it where to stop, and a release for when the power is out. When a motor runs and the curtain doesn't move, the cause is often the chain, the sprocket or the brake rather than the motor itself, and that is a smaller repair than a new operator.

If your gate still comes down by hand every night, it can be motorized so that opening and closing becomes a keyed switch or a button. That is usually the moment an old, tired spring gets replaced too, so the new motor isn't lifting dead weight.

Operators from the common makers are serviced, and a motor at the end of its life is replaced with one sized for your curtain.

Fire-rated rolling doors

Some buildings have rolling doors that are part of their fire protection. They are built to close on their own when the alarm system or a heat-sensitive link releases them, and they are tested by letting them drop.

After a test or a false alarm, a fire-rated door has to be reset and checked so it closes evenly, completely and at a safe speed. We reset and repair these doors, and the release, the closing speed and the curtain are all checked at the same visit.

How a gate visit goes

A storefront that can't open, or can't lock up, is treated as urgent.

  1. Call and describe the gateWhat it does when you try to raise it, whether it has a motor, and roughly how wide the opening is.
  2. The whole gate gets checkedSprings, curtain, guides, bottom bar, motor and controls, not only the part you noticed.
  3. Free estimate before any workYou hear what the gate needs and decide. Nothing starts without your yes.
  4. Repair, test, lock upThe gate runs up and down, the locks are tried, and you watch it close before the technician leaves.

Storefronts, warehouses and garages

Our rolling gate work covers storefronts on commercial strips, warehouses and loading areas, parking garages under apartment buildings, and the gates on garages behind homes. The towns and neighborhoods we cover are listed on our service areas page.

For overhead doors on loading docks, see commercial garage door repair. For driveway gates and their openers at homes, see gate repair and gate opener repair.

Questions we get asked

The motor hums but the gate won't go up. What's wrong?

Usually the springs have lost tension or broken, so the motor is trying to lift the full weight of the curtain. A worn brake or chain can do the same. Stop pressing the button so the motor doesn't overheat, and call us. The technician checks the springs and the drive before anything is replaced.

Can you put a motor on a gate we pull down by hand?

Yes. Most hand-operated rolling gates can be motorized and run from a keyed switch or a button. The springs are checked at the same time so the new motor isn't fighting a heavy curtain.

Do bent slats mean a whole new gate?

Usually not. Damaged slats can often be replaced on their own, and a bent guide straightened or replaced, which keeps the rest of the gate in service.

Our gate is stuck open and we can't lock up. What should we do?

Call us and say the storefront can't be secured. That call goes ahead of routine work, and the first job is getting the gate closed and locked, even if a part has to be ordered for the full repair.

Do you work on fire-rated rolling doors?

Yes. We reset fire-rated rolling doors after a drop test or a false alarm and check that they close evenly and completely.

Do you repair perforated, see-through gates too?

Yes. Perforated and solid curtains are repaired the same way, slat by slat where that is possible.

How can we tell if it's the motor or the springs?

Tell us on the call what the gate does: whether the motor hums, runs without moving the curtain, or stops partway, and whether the gate feels heavier than it used to. That usually narrows it to the springs or the drive, and the technician confirms it at the gate before recommending anything.

Is the estimate free?

Yes. The technician looks at the gate, tells you what it needs and gives you a free estimate before any work starts.